26 Mart 2008 Çarşamba

CA18DET ECU Pinout Reference



The following diagram and pinout reference should help you work out what does what. Handy if your making a field harness or installing a programmable ECU. I've numbered and colour coded the pins in figure 1 for easy matching against the pinout table below.

kaynak: http://www.kouki.co.uk/Reference/capinout.asp

13 Ocak 2008 Pazar

J's (Jack's), Q's (Queen's), K's (King's) A's "Almighty" ~Trim Levels

The S13 Silvia was the first S-series car to use the J's (Jack's), Q's (Queen's), K's (King's) naming for the different trim levels. The J's was the base model with a very basic interior, little standard equipment, and 14" steel wheels. The Q's model is middle-of-the-road. They received many electric options and an optional LSD. The K's received the turbocharged engines, along with all the upgrades of the Q's.

On top of the K's and Q's models, The Club Selection and Dia(mond) Selection packages came with specific options bundled together; for example, all K's Club Selections came with projector headlights, a rear spoiler, and aluminum wheels. All the names used are references to the suits and face cards of English playing cards.

There also exists the rare Silvia A's "Almighty" (ƒI[ƒ‹ƒ}ƒCƒeƒB), introduced in late 1992. Confusingly, the Almighty fits roughly into the middle of the range. The only available engine was the naturally-aspirated SR20DE.




9 Ocak 2008 Çarşamba

fault codes on your ca18det 180SX / silvia ECU

Reading the fault codes on your 180SX ECUThe following instructions should allow you to easily read and/or erase trouble codes on your cars electronic control unit (ECU).The instructions come from a Nissan service manual. Most Nissan ECCS system cars from the late eighties on will be very similar to read as the 180SX/Silvia. The only difference is likely to be some of the actual fault codes and their descriptions.
In a few words, reading to code/s requires accessing the ECU, placing the unit in self diagnosis mode using a screw driver, andlooking at the flashing lamps on the unit to see what code is displayed.

1. Accessing the ECU
The ECU is located in the passenger side foot wells kick panel. You need to remove the two fasteners of the door sill in order to remove the kick panel. Two metal screws and a plastic fastener hold the kick panel. To remove the plastic fasteners, unscrew the center part and pull out the other part.
Under the panel you should now see the ECU with its connector and wiring loom feeding it. Unfortunately, you have to access the back side of the ECU facing the firewall. On an R30/31 Skyline it faces the right way.Unscrew the unit and turn it 180 degrees on the vertical axis without unplugging it. You may need to release or cut off the plastic clip that holds the loom to the lower mounting to get enough slack.
You should be now able to see the front of the unit. An adjustment screw (used as a switch) , a green inspection lamp and a red inspection lamp. The screw is also supposed to adjust the idle speed as well a select ECU modes but I've never seen any noticeable difference from turning the pot with the engine running.
MARK THE ORIGINAL POSITION OF THIS SCREW AS A PRECAUTION. UPON DIAGNOSTIC COMPLETION, RETURN THE SCREW TO THE PREVIOUS POSITION. OTHERWISE, ENGINE IDLE SPEED MAY CHANGE.

2. The ECU modes
The Electronic Control Unit has five modes:
Mode I- Exhaust gas sensor monitor (Normal mode)Mode II- Mixture ratio feedback control monitorMode III- Self diagnosticMode IV- Switch on/off diagnostic systemMode V- Real-time diagnostics system.
The unit automatically return to normal mode I when the ignition is switched off.
Troubles code are stored on mode III. The stored codes will be lost if the car battery isdisconnected or if after selecting mode III, mode IV is selected. Only mode III will explained in this text until I know more about the other modes.

3. Changing to mode III.
- Turn the ignition 'ON' , don't start the engine.- Turn the ECU adjusting screw fully clockwise.
The lamps will flash a number of times with a longer break between each string of flashes. E.G.The inspection lamps will flash once, the unit will be in mode I. The inspection lamps will then flash twice, the unit will be in mode II. The inspection lamps will flash 3 times, the unit will be in mode III. The unit will continually cycle through all five modes until the screw is turned back anti clockwise just after the needed mode flashes are done.
- Turn the screw back after the lamp has flashed 3 times.- You are now in self diagnostic mode III.

4. Reading the trouble codes.
The codes are indicated by the number of flashes on both red and green lamps. First the red lamp flashes and then the green one. The red lamp corresponds to units of ten and the green lamp to units of one. For example, when the red lamp flashes once and the green lamp flashes twice, this signifies the number "12". There may be more than one code, there is a long break between each set of red then green flashes to separate them if there is..
The codes are: Possible cause: Symptoms:11 Crank angle sensor circuit Wiring fault(connector), faulty sensor. No or difficult starts, bad idle.12 Mass Air flow meter circuit Wiring fault etc., sensor, ECU No or difficult start, lack of power.13 Engine temperature sensor circuit Wiring fault etc., sensor, ECU Engine stalls, lack of power, low economy14 Vehicle speed sensor circuit Wiring fault etc., sensor, ECU Lack of power, poor idle21 Ignition signal missing in primary coil Wiring fault etc., sensor, ECU No or difficult start, bad idle, misfires31 E.C.U. (E.C.C.S. control unit faulty) Wiring fault, ECU internals ?33* Exhaust gas O2 sensor circuit Wiring fault etc., sensor, ECU lack of power, low economy35* Exhaust gas temperature circuit Wiring fault etc., sensor, Cat/conv lack of power, low economy, dash lamp43 Throttle position sensor circuit Wiring fault etc., sensor, ECU lack of power, low economy, stalling45 Injector leak ? Wiring fault etc., sensor, ECU ?55 No malfunction ( all normal )
*unleaded models only.

There may be some more but I have not finished the list yet.
After the diagnostic codes are viewed, turn the ignition 'off' to return to mode I.
Then return the screw adjuster to roughly its original position OR half way if you forget where it was.

To erase the memory, use mode IV. The codes are automatically erased from memory when the starter is operated fifty times after the last trouble occurred.

source: http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=270584

2 Ocak 2008 Çarşamba

Z32 maf install on ca18det




This diagram shows how to wire a Z32 ( 300ZX ) MAF onto the CA18DET loom. Make sure you check that your Z32 MAF has "n62" or p62 on the label. These MAF's are 80mm diameter and can read up to 480HP ( CA18DET MAF can only read 190HP ).



After you install your new MAF, you WILL need to re-programme your factory ECU to suit. ( or buy an APEXi SAFC or similar ).





GREDDY EMANAGE INSTALL INTO CA18DET S13

 


 


(ecu pinout)ecu pinout


 




GREDDY EMANAGE INSTALL INTO CA18DET S13.


Items used :


Philips Screwdriver

Soldering iron

Heatshrink

Solder

Cutters

Electrical tape.


Easy forward install, most are just tap ins, apart from these wires. Follow closely, otherwise the car will not start. Please Make sure you disconnect the battery, and while disconnected push the brake pedal a few times to clear ECU. Please only install if you are an auto sparky, or very very confident with wiring. Otherwise theres many problems you can come across, and you’ll either break your ECU, your emanage, both or a lot of other stuff… so a very big WARNING.


Also, when viewing plugs, view as wires go into them. Otherwise it will be back to front.


AIRFLOW METER INPUT.


Cut the Air Flow Meter wire to intercept, WHITE goes to AIRFLOW METER, GREEN wire goes to ECU.




IGNITION TIMING


The Ignition timing harness is a little more fiddly, it requires cutting of every wire, and then resoldering on, so be very careful with this one, as if you go backwards, you will not be able to start your car.


Same principle on all wires, WHITE is the input from the ECU, BLACK is the output to the COILPACKS




these are the pinouts of the harnesses on the emanage, just as you would view them if they were plugged in


kaynak: http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=199965



    

kahtalı mıçı ispek

Motor .

Filtre

Egzoz

bana göre max 2860 turbo

intercooler

Walbro yada bosch benzin pompası 255lps

yağ pompası değişmeli

manuel boost controller

Bow

Benzin regulatörü

Soğuk buji HKS yada Denso

Z32 AFM

10W60 yağğğ

Turbo yağlama boruları değişecek

standart debriyaj yetmez ,stage 1 alman gerekecek




yürüyen.

Coilover, iyi bir marka olacak ve camber ayarı olacak

Ön arka kule gergileri mutlaka

S14 şaftının difransiyele giren son parçası

1.5 yada 2 way LSD

Uzun rod kolu+rot başı



bol lastik :)